(1) Crosscut Saw. A crosscut saw (handsaw) (Figure 2-6) is designed to cut across the grain of the wood. Its teeth are sharpened like a knife so they will cut the fibers of the wood on each side of the saw cuts (or kerf). A crosscut saw is 20 to 26 inches long and has 8 to 12 teeth per inch. The number of teeth per inch is stamped on the blade near the handle.

(2) Ripsaw. This saw is used to cut with (or parallel to) the grain of the wood. The teeth of a ripsaw (Figure 2-7) are a series of little chisels set in two parallel rows. On each full stroke of the saw, the edges chisel off a little from the end of the wood fibers. This cut is also called a kerf.

(3) Compass Saw. The compass saw (Figure 2-8) has 10 points to the inch. It may be equipped with a blade (with 13 points to the inch) for cutting nails. Its main function is cutting holes and openings such as electrical outlets, where a power tool would be too large.

(4) Coping Saw. The blade of a coping saw can be turned to change the direction of the cut or to cut sharp angles. This saw is also used for cutting curved surfaces and circles. Coped joints are sometimes used when joining moldings at right angles. One piece of stock is cut away to receive the molded surface of the other piece (Figure 2-9).

(5) Hacksaw. This saw is 10 to 12 inches long; it has 14 to 32 points per inch (Figure 2-10). It is used to cut metal, such as metal trim or aluminum thresholds. It should not be used to cut wood.

(6) Miter Saw. A miter saw is used with a miter box. The saw is held in a horizontal position and can be adjusted to cut various angles. It is used to cut moldings and picture frames to fit. It can be adjusted to cut at right angles for small pieces of wood. To cut a piece of molding to a specified angle: set the saw to the prescribed angle, insert the piece in the proper position against the fence, and move the saw back and forth across the material (Figure 2-11).

(1) Jointing. When a saw comes from the factory, the teeth are all uniform in size, length, bevel, pitch, and set. After being used and sharpened a few times, the teeth become distorted. When this occurs, they must be filed to a straight line. This operation is called jointing (Figure 2-12). When you joint a saw, place it in a saw vise with the handle to the left. Starting with the heel end of the saw, lay a flat file on top of the teeth and move it lightly along the top of the teeth. Do not top the file. Continue this operation until all teeth are even, with a slight crown at the top of each tooth. If you find that the teeth are too short, which would make them hard to set, file them to the proper shape before they are set.

(2) Setting. After the teeth are made even by jointing, they must be set. This means that every tooth will be bent a little to give the blade sufficient clearance. For a handsaw, the set should be half the thickness of the blade. This rule applies to both crosscut saws and ripsaws. When using a saw set (Figure 2-13), bend every other tooth (halfway from the point), starting at either end of the saw. Do not attempt to hurry this operation; it takes skill and practice to do it properly.

(3) Filing. To file a crosscut saw (Figure 2-14), place the saw securely in a saw vise with the handle to the left. Using a three-cornered file, start filing from the heel end. Place the file between two teeth and incline it toward the small or tapered end of the saw. File both teeth at once, using one or more strokes and putting the same pressure on each stroke. Work down the length of the saw, then turn the saw around so that the handle is to the right. Incline the file to the tapered end, which is now to the left, and again work down the length of the saw.

(4) Beveling. To file a ripsaw, place the saw securely in a saw vise. File straight across the front of the teeth using a three-cornered file. Lower the file handle from 2 to 3 inches. This gives a bevel on the top of each tooth that leans away from you. File down the length of the saw, starting with the heel end and using the same amount of pressure on each stroke (Figure 2-15).

(5) Side-Dressing. After you file the saw, lay it flat on a board and run the flat side of the file gently along the side of the teeth. Turn the saw over and repeat the operation on the other side. This is called side-dressing. No setting may be needed for the next two or three filings. In this case, side-dress with an oilstone to remove the burrs (Figure 2-16).